Some culinary experiences are marked by a distinct, transformative quality. Equal parts familiar, novel, and exquisite, they make the diner feel at ease while enticing curiosity, excitement, and a sense of adventure. Often, they evoke distant memories and concepts of far-away lands while yielding a grounding and welcoming sense of belonging. Somehow, you experience a sensation of a cultural and culinary arrival, and yet, you’re galvanised by the notion that you could be everywhere and nowhere in particular, all at once.

You might just be at one of Ivan Brehm’s iconic establishments, discovering the wonder of crossroads cooking. Born from Ivan’s extensive culinary journey spanning from the edge of São Paulo’s Japanese neighbourhood to renowned kitchens like The Fat Duck in the UK, Per Se in New York and now Singapore, the idea of crossroads cooking embodies the concept of culinary interconnectedness, which centres food as a medium for connection that embraces commonalities over differences.

Culinary evolution: From research to fluency

When we first spoke with Ivan in 2018, the renowned Brazil-born chef was one year into running his Singapore-based Nouri restaurant while still trying to define the crossroads concept through research and historical connections. A few years later, a lot has changed.

Unsurprisingly, Nouri was awarded a Michelin star, and Ivan opened another venue, Appetite, which fuses his signature cooking philosophy with art and music. Ivan’s culinary practice has evolved, too. Crossroads has blossomed into a fluent culinary language which – while still connected to history and cultural stories behind food traditions – now forms a blueprint for creating dishes with universal appeal. “The way we articulate it today is freer and more assured,” Ivan explains.

Finding authenticity through unprecedented exploration

With this culinary assertiveness comes the courage to explore the unknown and uncharted to create the novel, unconventional and extraordinary. And that, says Ivan, inevitably leads to authenticity – not necessarily in a sense of ownership over a dish, but rather the originality of doing something the way it hasn’t been done before. “It’s an unavoidable consequence of cooking the way we do,” he adds. “Crossroads cooking is without precedent. Every step we take is, by consequence, authentic.”

Naturally, heritage remains an essential backdrop to Ivan’s bold pursuits – delving deeper into culinary tradition can often uncover layers of complexity and innovation. “The word ‘innovation’ means the repurposing of tradition made relevant for today,” he says, and this firm belief is perhaps why the creative mastermind found a kindred spirit in Gaggenau, a company that has been fusing the past and the present for generations.

Innovation rooted in tradition: A shared ethos

“The affinity is obvious; we speak the same language,” Ivan admits. “Gaggenau’s life-long commitment to design and modern relevance rooted in tradition is matched by Nouri’s commitment to creativity with food in modernity and another in our shared history. It’s something we understand as a common value.”

Gaggenau appliances – particularly the sous vide steamer oven that has been an indispensable tool in Ivan’s culinary arsenal – have consistently enabled him to execute his vision with rigour and finesse. “The sous vide function comes in very handy when cooking meats and vegetables with precision,” he admits. “Our kitchen frequently uses it for everything from chicken liver parfait to corn custard and confit ducks.”

In a way, the reliable appliance is symbolic of the instrumental role Ivan’s partnership with Gaggenau has played in his development as a chef and in the evolution of his restaurants. “The ability to turn functionality into design and lifestyle statements is – as I see it – instrumental in sending a message to our guests that good food is accessible, that kitchens are human spaces, and that cooking and service are as luxurious as they are performative acts worthy of fascination,” he enthuses.

Designing kitchens for human connection

Ivan also notes that the powerful combination of precision and control allows culinary creators to produce food and memories for people without compromising on refinement or aesthetics.

“Professional kitchens can be harsh and brash places to be,” he smiles, “but not here.” Open, inviting, and inclusive, Appetite’s chef’s table aptly reflects this sentiment. “The traditional avant-garde look of our equipment and the softer, homey design are all crucial to putting guests at ease and contributing to this sense of intimacy and community.”

The desire to create an environment where diners can genuinely connect is perhaps the most essential notion underpinning Ivan’s culinary ethos: the kitchen is a human space, and cooking is a human act. And, the way he sees it, technology should act as an enabler that fosters a sense of connection.

“Technology will play a part in our food and restaurant landscape in the future,” he notes. “And companies that can bring humans closer to – not further away from – the act of cooking and serving food are poised to make a greater difference in our lives. Cooking is a human act, and the day technology begins to deprive us of such a marvellous thing, it will have done humanity a disservice.”

Does Gaggenau fit in this vision of the future? Ivan has no doubt. “Using tech to ensure greater safety, precision, ergonomic ease, and a little bump on our lifestyles is certainly a path I see a distinct brand like Gaggenau is careful of, something it aims to protect,” he explains.

An epicurean manifesto: Embracing radical curiosity beyond the accolades

While Gaggenau’s highly considered use of innovation enhances safety, precision, and ease of use while embracing the human element of cooking, the responsibility to protect and celebrate culinary experiences doesn’t fall on technology alone. Ultimately, as Ivan has learned during his extensive travels, we must cherish food’s transformative power.

“Good food is universal. And exposure to what’s different and unfamiliar is paramount to our development as humans and as a community,” Ivan explains. The way he sees it, in the last few years, the global foodie has been distracted by superfluous luxury, losing sight of what food should be about. “Discerning foodies who aren’t open to the new, who see value only in what they realise or recognise from an app, aren’t foodies in my books,” he states. “They’re consumers of food.”

So, what is a genuine food lover in his books? Ivan takes a moment to answer. “Someone who sees the beauty and appeal of something they might not yet understand and is curious about its surroundings, regardless of class or market value,” he says. “It’s someone who trusts their senses and approaches eating as an act far more significant than a Michelin meal or a social media opportunity.”

Chef’s advice? In a world where it’s become particularly easy to confuse good food with an aesthetic that merely resembles it, Ivan encourages everyone to embrace the spirit of radical curiosity, look past culinary guides, awards, and social media influences and focus on answering one, perhaps the most crucial question: Did this meal make my heart and belly sing?

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